India is famous for its perfume oils which have adorned the wrists and necks of the Islamic faithful who carried fragrance across Europe and introduced it to royalty in the 14th century. A walk through Jaipur's Old City Market shows that perfume is only one of many aromas which make up India.

In the crowded streets you'll be assailed by the smells of manure from the holy cows which freely wander the roads, diesel fumes from the zooming auto rickshaws, freshly ground coriander and turmeric, simmering vats of yogurt lassi, and thousands of orange marigold garlands which are used in religious ceremonies.

The center roundabout of the market is where you'll find the glass stoppered bottles holding dark amber perfume oils. The stall owner, who may or may not be toothless, will happily dab samples of jasmine, rose, musk, patchouli, opium, and marigold oil across your skin, allowing the ancient aroma of India to surround you in a fragrant cloud that not even the smell of cow patties can penetrate. Not much, anyway.